Vintage Jewelry Unleashed ~ Vol.13b ~ January 2007

Table of Contents:
New Items | Jewelry Tips | Trends

New Items at Vintage Jewelry Online.com

This month's vibrant collection contains more highly desirable items from all eras and types including some unique bakelite bracelets and a machine made German Jakob Bengel necklace. There is some scarce Trifari, Eisenberg, a marvelous slinky Ingrid Cusson necklace and a wonderful pair of Miriam Haskell purple and crystal earrings. There is also a fabulous pair of French semi-precious stone earrings made by Van Der Straeten that has a powerful and dramatic appeal. In our fine collection this month there are two striking 18k gold white Deco diamond rings and a 1930's Tiffany & Co pierced pendant. The Jewelry Tips section continues exploring the commonly defined jewelry eras with Part 4B 1890-1920 with Arts & Crafts.

To see the newest jewelry listed in a group, click here.

Here are this months featured items. I hope you enjoy looking at them.

The new-featured highlights are found on the home page and include:

• an 18k White Gold Deco .50cwt+ Filigree Ring #FG-00231
• a Sterling Tiffany & Co 1930's Pierced Pendant #FS-00058
• a Sterling & Cobalt Blue Enamel Arts & Crafts Moonstone Large Pin #FS-00061
• a Rare Reversed Carved & Laminated Apple Juice Bracelet & Pin #CB-00205
• a Machine Age Galalith Jakob Bengel Chrome Necklace #CB-00285
• a Hard to Find Sterling Eisenberg Original Galloping Horse Pin #CS-00282
• a Pair of French Van Der Staeten Semi-Precious Clip On Earrings #CS-00441
• an Outstanding Unsigned 1940's Showy Rhinestone 4 Piece Parure #CU-00103

Jewelry Tips

Jewelry Eras and the History Behind Them Part 4B

The past few months I provided an overview of the most commonly referenced jewelry eras beginning with the Georgian period. This month we'll follow the timeline and cover the years, 1890- 1920 Part 4B. There were five prevalent types of jewelry styles during this time period: Arts & Crafts, Art Nouveau, Revivalist (which we now call Beau-arts and Neo- Renaissance), Edwardian, and of course Victorian. This month I will cover Arts & Crafts. Keep in mind, many of these styles overlapped and it is not uncommon to see two "styles" combined in one piece. This is why you may see similar items called two different names.

The majority of the reference information comes from Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Edition by Christie Romero and the 6th Edition Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry by Jeanenne Bell both of which I highly recommend. (See Vintage Jewelry Unleashed Vol.3 - March 2006)

Commonly Defined Reference Periods

1760 - 1830 Georgian
1840 - 1860 Early Victorian
1861 - 1879 Mid Victorian
1880 - 1902 Late Victorian
1890 - 1920 Edwardian & Art Nouveau
1920 - 1935 Art Deco
1940 - 1965 Post War & Retro Modern

1890 - 1920 Arts & Crafts

Historical Perspective: 1890-1920
Arts & Crafts was considered more of a movement than a particular style of jewelry as it reflected an attitude, a life style and a philosophy of life. The artists of this movement recreated the past and applied ideas or an approach to hand-wrought pieces and individualism. Because of this individualism you will see many forms and expressions having different styles and designs.

Arts & Crafts is commonly referenced by country of origin that began in England and moved around the world. Many pieces are unmarked but can be attributed to a country or even an artist if one becomes skilled in identifying characteristics. Arts & Crafts items were produced by hand from start to finish by one person. It was their skill as a craftsperson that needed to be exhibited in their pieces. So you will see hammer marks or and even irregularities in these works of art. The lines were usually very simple and included the use of stylized organic motifs.

In England in 1870s rebellion was brewing amongst the counter revolutionaries due to the Industrial Revolution. They were against mass production and the machines age and preferred the human element in the production of fine items. They also turned against the decorative and ornateness of Victorian fussiness and instead moved towards a more modernistic' design form. John Ruskin and William Morris were the recognized leaders of the Arts & Crafts movement in England. Jewelry was included in this movement in 1888 by C.R. Ashbee when he founded the Guild of Handicraft in London.

Some of the more recognized artists and companies by country include:
England: John Ruskin, William Morris, Liberty & Company, W.H. Haseler, Murrle, Bennett & Co. Charles Horner, Arthur and Georgina Gaskin, Nelson Dawson and Edward Spencer ( Artificers' Guild), Fordham Gallery.
Germany: Theodor Fahrner, Heinrich Levinger, and Wiener Werkstatte.
Denmark: Georg Jensen.
United States Guilds: Roycrofters Guild, The Handicraft Shop of Boston, Gustav Stickley, Boston Society of Arts & Crafts, Art Institute of Chicago, The Kalo Shop.
United States Individuals: Gilbert Oaks, Laurence Foss, Mary Gage, Stavre Gregor Panis, Louis Tiffany, Carence Crafters, George W. Frost.

The Jewelry: 1890 - 1920 Motifs
Stylized motifs using organic motifs were the most popular. Flowers, animals, and scarabs were extremely popular. In Germany hammered silver designs mixed with 'leaf-inspired' shapes were some of the most beautiful. Modernistic curves were also used and showed a preview of what was to become Art Nouveau.

The Jewelry: 1890 - 1920 Styles
The fashion of the day rejected the tight formal dress of the Victorian period and incorporated loose and high-waist styles. Clothing was simpler and less formal.

The jewelry items that complimented this dress code included primarily necklaces, pendants, sash ornaments and pins and brooches. Rings and bracelets are less commonly found and therefore are very desirable.

The Jewelry: 1890 - 1920 Materials & Stones
Craftspeople were more interested in the value of the workmanship than the intrinsic value of the materials. You will see more silver than gold and some copper, glass and brass. You will also see more semi-precious cabochons stones versus precious faceted diamonds and sapphires. Moonstones, turquoise, amethyst, enameling, mother of pearl, pearls, opals and chalcedony were the most often used stones.

But even the stones varied by country. In the Scandinavian countries you will also see, green agate, cornelian, lapis, lazuli, amber, labradorite and malachite.

Interestingly enough, because the Arts & Crafts jewelry was hand produced, they were very expensive and only the wealthy could afford them. So while many individuals were not successful, many large companies including, Liberty & Co, W.H. Haseler, Murrle, Bennett & Co and Charles Horner who were able to commercialize the style were very successful because they were able to make it affordable to the masses.

Jewelry and Fashion Trends

"Acknowledge trends, don't become the trends"
says FWD on Jan 9, 2007

According to Fashion Wire Daily, "Every fashion magazine will agree that creating your individual style is what is defining fashion right now. Readers are encouraged to mix and match and use whatever they can to define their style. We don't recommend putting a fedora on every ensemble .......... but we do recommend subtly mixing things up.

If you are going for a look that is futuristic with super-long metallic leggings or if you are going for a more "girly" look with your Tinsley-esque fluttery white dress, that's great - just don't get too literal. Soften your metal leggings with an oversized, cashmere sweater and harden your frills with an armful of gold cuffs. Like everything else: it's all about balance and moderation." And when in doubt, go sophisticated elegance! So the best advice to follow, is your own advice... learn, become knowledgeable, but most of all learn to develop your own style. Take from others, but add your own flair for what makes you look good and feel good.

That being said, the one item I discovered recently that is pretty hot, is that polka dots are happening again. Here are some of ours:

• Cut Out Polka Dot Peach Celluloid Necklace #AM-00054
• Carved Red-Orange Dot Bracelet #CB-00039
• Elegant KJL Emerald Cabochon Earrings #CS-00147
• Miriam Haskell Silk Cord Red Bakelite Dot Bracelet #CS-00231
• 14K Amethyst Edwardian Cabochon Ring #FG-00028

Best wishes,
Shelley